An Afterclap of Fate: Mallory on Everest [Hardcover]

"An Afterclap of Fate" : Mallory on Everest by Charles Lind is a most extraordinary book.

In the form of a prose poem, the author leads us through the stream of consciousness of George Mallory as he attempts the final stretch of the ascent of Everest in 1924 with his climbing partner, Sandy Irvine. The poem mixes Mallory's mentation from his "inscape" with his reaction to the physical events of the climb itself.

"An Afterclap of Fate" sets out one theory of what actually happened to Mallory and Irvine on that ill-fated day. Using the evidence gathered since the disappearance of the two men, particularly that from the discovery of Mallory's body in 1999, Charles Lind develops a plausible picture of what happened.

The book is also a journey into Mallory's personality and soul, most convincingly portrayed. Mallory's random thoughts and reminiscences, with references to his upbringing, education, service in WW1 and his family, present a picture of a sensitive and spiritual man, nonetheless driven by an obsession somewhat out of his control. The combination and juxtaposition of the human and the heroic, the sublime and the everyday make for a fascinating character study.

The book is verging on eccentric in its form, structure and the language used. There are copious notes to decipher the references (very welcome!) and a glossary of archaic and obsolete words, including such delights as "haecceity" and "moliminous". I do think Charles Lind has included one or two more commonplace words as well here to flatter the reader!

All in all, this is a delightful book, very much off the beaten track.

I found it somewhat surprising in 2006 to have yet another book on Mallory and Everest win the Boardman-Tasker Award, particularly as in that year I preferred at least 2 others from the `short-list'. However Charles Lind's fascinating book is quite different to any other of many works covering the mystery of Mallory and Irvine, and it fulfils a fundamental principle of the Boardman-Tasker scheme to widen understanding of the allure and challenges of mountains and mountaineers. `An Afterclap of Fate' has been applauded as innovative literature, but though aesthetically appealing to a judging panel it is for me not sufficiently `ripping yarn' quality - and hence 4-star rating - otherwise 5-star well deserved.

Yet even a `philistine' like me can admire how Charles Lind puts together fact and fantasy as he reconstructs the final fateful climb on Mount Everest in 1924 - and I welcome his temerity in offering a convincing conclusion. Controversy over the paradoxical nature of Mallory and Irvine's summit bid is likely to be matched by controversy over the format of `An Afterclap of Fate'. It is presented as a 71 page prose poem in 38 parts, almost 40 pages of explanatory notes, and a 5 page glossary. The latter section is indispensable due to use of unfamiliar words, and Lind acknowledges his vocabulary and style are more extended and poetic than is usually the norm - immediately instanced with his explanation on dual use of "afterclap" in the sense of both "an unexpected stroke after the recipient has ceased to be on his guard", or "a surprise happening after an affair is supposed to be at an end".

Basics of the mystery of Mallory and Irvine may be well known but Lind delves deeper. He burrows into correspondence and writings together with absorption and assimilation of aspects uncovered from Mallory's religious upbringing and classical background, coupled with records and commentaries on his climbing achievements, and comparisons to modern performances. Through his poem, with all evidence assembled and writing as though words are Mallory's own, Lind relives the climb and constructs a persuasive chronicle of events.

The language is evocative, and skilful use is made of parodies - sometimes bluntly exposed via the explanatory notes. Overall these abound with illuminating detail on climbing and mountaineering, on poetry and philosophy, on religions and on spirituality. Only a second thorough reading allowed me to appreciate much of this. Some knowledge of Mallory and Everest is vital for recognition of Lind's allusions to mountaineering history, and for me great effort was required to both comprehend the poem and at the same time to digest the explanatory notes. The latter are crucial and for some parts yield greater insight than the poem itself. An example is the few words employed for Mallory's consideration of how Everest came to possess him - "who knows, perhaps in time Everest will be the Mecca"; as opposed to verbose notes describing the first guidebook to Lliwedd with reference to it being "the Mecca of climbers". Perhaps more significantly this note by Lind quotes from Mallory's actual account of overcoming a difficulty on Far East Buttress of Lliwedd, and Lind alludes to how Mallory could have succeeded on the Second Step of Everest.

This is the crux of the mountain and leads to the crux of the poem - with further parts declaring Mallory's story, plus supporting notes relating to evidence and expert opinions. With regard to success for Mallory and Irvine, Charles Lind's `An Afterclap of Fate' provides a complete, credible, internally consistent, coherent narrative which accords with all known facts. I want to agree with his verdict on what happened during the final summit assault.