American Masala: 125 New Classics from My Home Kitchen [Hardcover]

I picked up my copy of "American Masala" last night so this review is a first impressions sort of look at chef Suvir Saran's latest cookbook. First of all, the photography and the graphic elements that make up this book are vividly colorful. As you can see from the cover, the colors are rich and intense - almost a visual foretaste of the equally vivid flavors and unique layering of spices you will experience when you try these recipes. Building on "Indian Home Cooking," this second book provides even more background to the recipes - the stories of people and experiences that have inspired Saran's collection of "125 new classics" are a pure pleasure to read. In fact, when I got home last night, I sat in bed reading Saran's book as I would a novel, getting lost in the textures and rhythms of anecdotes from Delhi, New York and other places around the world.

Today I decided to try Suvir's recipe for vegetarian enchiladas with roasted pepper sauce. As I looked through the recipe to make my shopping list, I discovered that I would be actually making three recipies: the roasted pepper sauce, the stir-fried carrot salad, and the enchiladas themselves. Now enchiladas, like many of the foods you will see in this cookbook, may seem a peculiar offering from one of the leading authorities in this country on Indian cooking. But as the title suggests, this book reflects Saran's own experience in America (where, as he states early on, he has lived almost as long as he had lived in India). Many of these recipes will no doubt seem familiar to you as you thumb through the book, but if you look at the ingredients, you will notice how Suvir subtly recreates them with new flavors and spices.

I have just finished making the roasted pepper sauce (fantastic!), the carrot salad (deeply warm and spicy with a lovely tang of lime) and have assembled the enchiladas. I'll be putting them in the oven in a few minutes and cannot wait to try them.

Get this book, it's a wonderful reflection of a gifted chef.

I've got two kids under the age of 9 and it is my goal in life to get them to eat food from every corner of the world. This is not always an easy task. American Masala is brilliant; Suvir Saran has practically written this book with me in mind. It is all the comfort food my family knows and loves, like Macaroni and Cheese and Fried Chicken, but Saran adds the spices and flavors from India that make it unique and exciting. I can introduce my kids to a cuisine I love while satisfying their young need to recognize what they are eating.

When I got the book in the mail I immediately handed it over to my 6 year old and asked him what he would like for dinner. He quickly filled the pages, that look like brightly colored candy, with little sheets of paper to mark his favorites. Last night he chose the meatloaf, aloo bonda potato dumplings and the fig flan. We were all licking our fingers and wanting to dip into the Tamarind glaze that sits on top the meatloaf. It is not the meatloaf my grandma used to make, it is better! And we love hers. Tonight my 8 year old has chosen the enchiladas with roasted pepper sauce, spiced pear chutney and magic bars. Ok I admit this is a crazy menu but if my kids are inspired to eat, I'm thrilled to do it!!!

Having delved into Suvir Saran's earlier book Indian Home Cooking, I've been waiting for months with giddy anticipation to get my hands on his newest work, American Masala - 125 New Classics from My Home Kitchen (Clarkson Potter, $35).

Within a week, I have read it cover to cover, senses awakening again as I gazed at each gorgeous color photograph and checking off seemingly every recipe to try sooner rather than later. Mr. Saran writes with the same
passion and wit that he conveys in person, whether it be teaching a class of eager students or sharing a meal with friends and family.

His stories of growing up in India in the shadow (a.k.a. underfoot) of his family's cook, grandmother, and mother somehow transcend his life and inspires others. He shares his joy of learning from those he loves and inspires us to teach those who may be underfoot in our own kitchens.

In American Masala, he takes American standards and gives them an Indian twist. The book begins with the foundation of Indian cuisine, chutneys, pickled vegetables, a raita, and spice blends, especially the keystone: Garam Masala, but quickly moves to the American melting pot with Spinach Lasagna with Roasted Eggplant Sauce and Veggie Enchiladas with Roasted Pepper Sauce. The ease of his recipes and his encouragement throughout the book make it seem as though anyone can welcome unexpected drop-in guests without panic. As he states, with just the fewest of pantry staples like red onions, red bell peppers, potatoes, and jalapeños; a couple of hearty snacks can be in front of your guests at a moment's notice.

At last, Saran gives us his recipe for Manchurian Chicken. No longer is there the need to search cyber space for this delectable dish nor fly to New York, to eat this flavorful creation again at his soon to be re-opened restaurant, Devi. Now you can make it at home! With just a few simple ingredients, the most exotic being garlic and ketchup, this dish is sure to please. Eggplant Caponata traditionally includes tomatoes, olives and capers, but Saran's Indian version includes jalapeños, ground coriander, toasted cumin, and fresh cilantro.

There's no trace of mayo in his cabbage slaw; instead you'll find fresh ginger, chaat masala, toasted cumin, cayenne pepper, and finely chopped jalapeño peppers. Every salad bar in America seems to have some version of carrot salad, but for his, Saran sautés cumin seeds and ground
peppercorns, adds ground coriander, then stir fries grated carrots and green cabbage, adding a few other ingredients at the end like cilantro and toasted cumin. As he states time and again, the simplest ingredients become sublime with the layering and use of spices: whole, ground, toasted dry, or sautéed in oil.

The Mushroom and Taleggio Turnovers are savory pillows of crimini, rosemary and red pepper flakes with a splash of white wine all surrounded by flaky, buttery goodness. For a quick sauce use the one from the Manchurian Chicken, adding a little water to thin and spoon over these puff pastry delights.

The Garam Masala that you made earlier now delights the Indian-spiced Meatballs with Tomato-Chile Sauce. With garlic and chilies at the center, the spices of the Garam Masala - including ground cloves and cayenne pepper -- are the stars that twinkle with clarity and delight in the meatballs. These delectable gems are bathed in a tomato and red bell pepper sauce, spiked with dried red chilies, fresh rosemary and thyme.

Pistachio-and-Cardamom Pound Cake is an absolutely delicious way to end a meal and can be assembled and baked in no time. As with any butter cake, make it a day ahead so the flavors can meld. If your taste buds can't wait, bake it in the morning, drizzle the Lemon Icing just prior to serving and watch your guests swoon over the flavors of cardamom and toasted ground pistachios. We have now deemed this cake the "orgasm cake"!!

Whether impromptu friends arrive at your doorstep, you have all a day to prepare a feast, or need inspiration to update your favorite recipe for macaroni and cheese, American Masala will become a standard cookbook in your library. Saran's chapter introductions as well as his footnotes for every recipe can be read over and over to inspire and remember why cooking and sharing good food is about comfort and adventure.

A Bientôt! Bret Bannon