Try this book - it's unusual and brilliant. Howse, a solitary traveller who observes everything, builds a powerful sense of place with precise and detailed description. He's very good on churches and architecture, which you might expect, but he writes about anything that he finds interesting - it might be an old woman's monologue overheard in a town square, or the different smells in a Spanish bar. Always it is done with great economy of means and there's no straining for effect. You get drawn in and you just want to continue on the road with him. "In Spanish," he says, "dolor means both pain and sorrow, and is one of the undoubted touchstones of human life." There is pathos in this book, too, because the author is sensitive to the way the Spain he loves is changing. All in all, A Pilgrim in Spain is a terrific read - and bound to become a classic.